Pilgrimage – St. James’ Church

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 10

Marisa Curcio — Sat, 28 Jan 2023 14:08:28 +0000

From Nick Sanchez

This morning, we woke up early to walk the Stations of the Cross. The shops in Jerusalem are still shuttered before sunrise — even most of the coffee stalls. And there in the sleepy stone streets, we prayed.

Jesus falls three times. Veronica wipes his brow. Mercifully, he gets a little help carrying the cross for a time.

And then, somewhere in the dark, I heard a strange sound. The alleycats were fighting. The small commotion was annoying, and then it was kind of funny. They sounded ridiculous.

I’m sure that’s what my sister and I sounded like as kids, fighting in the backseat of our parents’ car. It gets so much more terrible, I thought, when we’re older.

We humans are often quick to mock and tease. We devise thorn crowns and take up hammers. Tragedy leads to tragedy.

But after the nails and the spear, lost in darkness, how miraculous is it that the dawn comes to find us once again?

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 9

Marisa Curcio — Fri, 27 Jan 2023 14:00:30 +0000

From Betty Crowley

This morning we visited the sanctuary at Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus prayed before he was arrested.

What was profoundly meaningful & moving was being in the the garden where there are eight olive trees whose beautiful, twisted roots seem to weep as they bear silent witness to the rock where Jesus prayed and suffered the evening before his crucifixion.

There is a window behind the altar in the Church of All Nations where one can see a panorama of Jerusalem. The cross on the altar lines up with the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Jesus could undoubtedly see where he would carry the cross and ultimately be crucified as events were beginning to unfold. Our time here was one of silent contemplation & prayer.

The second event was when our community of happy pilgrims visited and swam (floated!) in the Dead Sea. At first glance, this may appear in sharp contrast to the morning, but it actually reflects the breadth & depth of our experiences on this trip.How fortunate it is that we can be together in serious contemplation & share joyful moments as well.

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 8

Marisa Curcio — Thu, 26 Jan 2023 13:43:36 +0000

From Kathy Slattery

Breakfast at 5:45am – really? Yep, our amazing guide Iyad knows (he knows everything, actually) that we need to get to the Western Wall and The Dome of the Rock really early in order to experience these places before the crowds arrive.

When we arrived at the Western Wall, the men and women (heads covered) approached the wall on separate sides of a screen. We touched the wall, prayed and put tiny slips of paper rolled tightly with prayers on them into crevasses in the wall. There were many faithful Jews praying at the wall with us.

Afterwards, we went through our second security check of the morning and walked up a ramp to the Temple Mount which thanks to our early arrival, was nearly empty. Out of this vast terrace arises the beautiful gold dome of the Al-Aqsa Mosque, The Dome of the Rock. The rock marks the site from where the Prophet Muhammad’s Night Journey to heaven began and it is one of the three most holy places in Islam.

We then visited Saint Ann’s (mother of Mary) Church (12th century) where we sang “Seek Ye First” in acoustical splendor. Later, I found our choir member, Ruth Cunningham singing impromptu in an underground chapel with a rapt audience. We were also treated to some fabulous singing of other pilgrim groups.

The Pools of Bethesda and a visit to the Dead Sea Scrolls at the Israel Museum rounded out another great day of our pilgrimage!

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 7

Marisa Curcio — Wed, 25 Jan 2023 15:27:58 +0000

From Sue Bennett

On day 7 our group of pilgrims left early for Bethlehem. We started our day visiting the Shepherd’s Field where the shepherds kept watch over their flocks.

There are many walls dividing this city and separating its people. The separation walls were built by the Israeli government to keep Palestinians out of Israel and segregated in the West Bank. But then Israel builds settlements on the tops of the hills in the West Bank, some that are illegal, with no way to stop them. Palestinians can’t travel freely, work in Israel without a permit or even fly out of the airport in Tel Aviv. They have to go to Jordan. As tourists we are able to move freely between areas, although we have been through several security checkpoints.

As Nelson Mandela said in quote painted on a section of the wall, “We know all too well that our freedom is incomplete without the freedom of Palestinians.”

Our next stop was the Church of the Nativity, the oldest church in Christendom built by Constantine in 326 AD.

The birthplace of Jesus is marked by a 14 sided star that signifies 14 generations going back to Abraham. After touching the star we gathered nearby in the tomb of Jerome to pray and sing. Singing Silent Night in a tomb next to the place where Jesus was born brought me to tears.

Lunch was at a fabulous Palestinian restaurant where the owner Ruth greeted us as we enjoyed falafel and shawarma. We then had a free afternoon to explore the old city.

Before dinner we had a fascinating talk on the Muslim perspective of living in Israel. Our speaker asked to us to be on the side of justice in this complicated country. We ended the day with evening prayer. Always so much to be grateful for and always so much to pray for.

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 6

Marisa Curcio — Tue, 24 Jan 2023 15:23:50 +0000

From Kate Ralls

“Hello? Are you awake? Did I tell you I love you?” This is the daily greeting we receive from our wonderful guide, Iyad. It’s 7 a.m., we are on the bus, all a bit tired. To hear these words warms my heart and puts a smile on my sleepy face. It’s a good reminder that you can never tell people you love them enough, even a group of New Yorkers you hardly know.

We are leaving Nazareth, making our way back to Jerusalem. We crossed the checkpoint/border back into the West Bank. This particular checkpoint is open from 8 a.m.-8 p.m. With Omar (our driver) and Iyad, we rolled through at 8 a.m. sharp!

What was so eye opening where the number of Palestinians lined up for work. These particular individuals had received permits to cross the border for work—they might be considered some of the lucky ones, doing what they need to do for survival. You can’t help but ask yourself…”who are you? And what is your story?” I SEE you. Out of curiosity and a sense of responsibility, the questions start to flow. The more questions asked, the more complicated it gets. This blog isn’t about politics, which is certainly not my expertise, but more about humanity and peace. It’s about asking the questions and educating myself and not looking the other way. This Pilgrimage creates a safe place for discovery. To practice our faith in the Holy Land where Jesus was. To go back in time, while looking at reality now… to look in the mirror and say, “how can I help?” How can I create peace within me and outside of me.

We arrived at the village of Burqin. This is where Jesus heard the cries of the 10 lepers who were quarantined to a cave. The stunning Byzantine church we visited remembers these lepers through icons and the actual cave where this took place. We prayed and referenced this Biblical scripture. That’s one of the things I love about this trip-referencing the Biblical verses of the land we are visiting. Honestly, I can’t help but think of today’s Palestinian’s.

We spent time in the small village of Taybeh. It is the only 100-percent Christian town in the Palestinian Authority. This community does everything they can to preserve Christianity here… when most odds are against them. Business owners struggle under the Occupation.

We learned more about this when we took a visit to the Taybeh brewery. Yes, we did a beer tasting on a Pilgrimage. It’s a challenge to run a Palestinian brewery in a mostly Muslim neighborhood, under the occupation. So what does that mean? For example, they have limited access to water, they pay taxes on import/export (within Israel and elsewhere), no access to a seaport, or the airport (under Israeli authority)…and many more obstacles.

The trust in the Lord is felt in this small village. Their faith is uplifting and inspiring. I am inspired in my own home life to keep Jesus at the forefront of everything and To teach my young daughters the same. Praying for peace is essential.

The picture: Christian ruins in Taybeh from the Byzantine time. The blood you see at the door is from a sacrifice that was made to give thanks for a healing, blessing, etc. The meat from the sacrifice is then shared with the food insecure communities.

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 5

Marisa Curcio — Mon, 23 Jan 2023 15:41:07 +0000

From Jennifer Charrington

New and Familiar As a returning pilgrim (lucky me!), I have been asked several times why I chose to return to the Holy Land. There is so much to learn here, to absorb, to think about, to experience- that a return trip feels just right for so many reasons. What I am finding this trip is a wonderful mix of new and familiar. Today was a packed day, beginning with a trip to the Jordan River to renew our baptismal vows. It was deeply moving to be gathered together with this convivial group to renew these vows. From there, we headed to Capernaum (one of my favorite places on this trip) to see Peter’s House and “the charcoal church” (formally known as the Church of the Primacy of St. Peter), where the resurrected Jesus appeared to his apostles and cooked them breakfast. Each place I had visited previously, but still learned anew, and pondered these places and bible readings in my heart. It’s a gift to be back walking the steps of Jesus four years later. Yesterday, at Christ Church, I was asked by priest Father Nael to do a reading during worship. I was both thrilled and honored to be asked to represent our parish, and felt the love from my fellow pilgrims as I rose from my seat to read. After the service, Father Nael told me he asked me to read, because he recognized me from the 2019 pilgrimage! I was astounded that he remembered me and this made the moment of celebrating the Eucharist with our Arab Christian brothers and sisters, all the more special. What a gift to be back in this sacred and holy place.

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 4

Marisa Curcio — Sun, 22 Jan 2023 15:35:34 +0000

From Hans Quitmeyer

Today was another remarkable day under another crystalline sky for us intrepid pilgrims. We attended a memorable English/Arabic service at Christ Church in Nazareth and then travelled to Sepphoris, a large Roman/Byzantine period town with dramatic ruins and fine mosaics.

But, for me, the most impactful event was the “surprise” that we had been promised after breakfast. We were led to a large space under the Sisters of Nazareth Convent and Guesthouse where we are staying. The building was constructed in the 1850’s, originally used as a school, and then converted for use as a pilgrim guesthouse.

Anyway, in the course of doing repair work under the building, a void was discovered which, upon entering and being explored, led to a large space containing rooms and cisterns used long ago. Perhaps most significantly, at the lowest level archeologists found the site of a tomb from the first century—Jesus’s time. Here is a picture of the tomb, showing an antechamber in the foreground where bodies would be prepared for burial in the two holes in the back. To the right is a small chapel, evidence that the tomb was once recognized as an important and sacred space. Since Nazareth was a village of only a few hundred people at the time of Jesus, perhaps Joseph was buried here. Early Christians may have highlighted the importance of the site by creating the adjacent chapel. We don’t know for sure, of course, but that is certainly possible.

Amazingly, in front of the tomb is a large round stone which would be rolled in front of the opening to block the entrance. Our guide said that this is perhaps the most intact tombstone yet found from this time.

This discovery provides interesting context for what happened to Jesus’s body after it was placed in Joseph of Arimethea’s unused tomb. Because Jesus died as the Sabbath was approaching and people were in a hurry, his body was likely placed in an antechamber like this one to await full preparation for burial when the women returned Sunday morning. His body would not yet have been buried in the actual burial holes. When the women arrived on Sunday morning, they expected to prepare the body and then place it in a burial hole. Instead, of course, they found an empty grave.

I won’t imagine Easter morning in quite the same way again!

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 3

Marisa Curcio — Sat, 21 Jan 2023 15:16:10 +0000

From Mary Malhotra

We left Jerusalem in silence and in the dark at 5:45AM this morning, and traveled to Wadi Qelt. The Wadi Qelt is a valley, originating in Jerusalem leading into the Jordan Rover which then flows into the Dead Sea during rains. Arriving just as dawn was breaking, we read Psalm 23 and walked in silent reflection meditating on the wilderness we might experience in our own lives and perhaps the wilderness of those whom we love. As the sun came up over the hills, and night gave way to day, the light reflected off the hills filling the otherwise barren landscape with the most beautiful colors. Young bedouin children eagerly waited for us to proudly sell their home made goods. We celebrated Eucharist in the desert valley and were joined by the bravest of the Bedouin children to share the peace. We traveled onto Jericho, the oldest known city in the world where we met wonderful local people happy to make fresh pomegranate juice for us or explain how their beautiful glassware is crafted. We shared coffee with the vendors, chatting about the wonders of this part of the world. From there we traveled to Nazareth, that small town where Nathaniel asked Philip, “Can anything good come out of Nazareth?” And Philip responded, “Come and see” (John 1: 46-47. It is in this little town that numbered perhaps no more than 50 households that the angel came to Mary and the world was changed.As we travel the foot steps of Jesus during this pilgrimage, we are changed by every place we stop, not only by seeing where Jesus was born, ministered, was crucified, and rose from the dead, but also by where he ate, slept, and the air he breathed. Two thousand years later, as we walk the same path, we are changed forever.

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 2

Marisa Curcio — Sat, 21 Jan 2023 00:43:45 +0000

From Abigail Huffman

Greetings from Jerusalem Day 2.

I’m sending a photo from a roof deck looking towards the Mount of Olives. We spent most of the day in the old city walking in the Armenian, Christian, Muslim, and Jewish quarters. I am continually struck by the density of religious cultures here. Straight on you can see the Gold Dome of the Rock, not far from the Mount of Olives which is now used for Jewish burials. Also straight ahead is the garden of Gethsemane with the church of all nations. Every nook and cranny in this city has layers of meaning and is important to someone’s history!

A highlight of this morning was a visit to Church of the Resurrection built by the mother of Constantine who discovered the cross and tomb of Jesus. An important practice is sharing the light of Resurrection from the Easter Vigil. Here you see Brenda with the light sharing it with St James pilgrims.

Pilgrimage Blog: Day 1

Marisa Curcio — Thu, 19 Jan 2023 19:40:13 +0000

From Karmen Kaufmann

Today was all about different perspectives, and boy have they changed and evolved and changed again over the course of the day.

I woke up this morning jet lagged, tired, and still a little sore from the grueling flight here. Without any time to drink a cup of coffee, I ran to Morning Prayer at 7:00 a.m. today. Somewhere in the middle of the Collect for Purity, I realized I didn’t need any caffeine—this would get me going for the day.

After Eucharist, we were greeted by Archbishop Hosam Naoam, who told us about his ministry in his wide reaching diocese.

Our amazing tour guide, Iyad, started the day with perspectives from the local Palestinian Arab Christians here in the West Bank. I was ready to start forming my own opinions on the whole Israeli/Palestinian conflict (my own hubris showing after just a few hours here in the Holy Land), when he said, “Don’t make an opinion, just continue taking it all in… by the end of this trip you’ll be even more confused by it all than you are right now!”

We then hopped in the bus for three different sweeping views of the city. Each time I saw the city differently. The moment we all saw the Dome of the Rock we all exclaimed, “OH, WOW!” And after seeing it 3 more times from different angles, it continues to amaze us all.

Then we headed up to Herodium, where King Herod had his elaborate palace-fortress overlooking his kingdom. The views from the top of the mountain shifted my perception of the Holy Land. With the breathtaking view of the Judean Desert, the Dead Sea, and the Jordanian mountains in the background, suddenly the stories I’ve been reading my whole life came into color.

After an amazing lunch at Orient Restaurant (check out Zack modeling for all of us in their banquet hall!), we headed back to East Jerusalem to get our bearings for our neighborhood and get a feel for what life is like for the locals here—where they buy their spices, and get their stamps, and go to the bookstore.

We just wrapped up Evening Prayer in the chapel of the Cathedral. I walked in to hear Ruth Cunningham, one of the members of the choir, singing a plainchant, and the beautiful sounds echoing and washing over all of us. And suddenly my perspective shifted one more time.

I’ve only been here for 24 hours and I know this trip will change me forever. Here’s to new food, and new sounds, and new people, and most importantly, new ways of seeing the stories we read each Sunday.